Rome Day 2

Couldn’t sleep, so up at four am and out for a walk in a futile search for coffee, the Romans do not start the day that early! At a more reasonable hour, we headed over to the Campo de' Fiori for pizza bianca, cappuccinos, and a stroll through the market, where we bought some cheese and blackberries.

Early morning - Campo de Fiori

Then it was on to Santa Maria sopra Minerva to see Filippo Lippi’s poignant and lovely Annunciation, the tomb of Fra Angelico, and Michaelango’s Christ bearing the Cross. Although we could have stayed for hours under the Gothic arches and dark blue ceiling, I was eager to show Bob the wonders of the Galleria Doria Pamphilj, which contains an almost overwhelming number of gorgeous works of art. The highlights are Velasquez’ portrait of Pope Innocent X, which is frighteningly intense and powerful, and the two Caravaggios, Mary Magdalene and the Flight into Egypt. The silvery, otherworldly glow on the angel’s legs in the latter must be one of the most beautiful uses of light in all of western painting―I could have sat in front of that painting all day. When I was here in November, I asked about seeing the Lippi Annunciation (you cannot see too many!) that normally hangs in the private apartments and was was told it was not possible. But on this day, there it was, the gold so brilliant you could have seen its glow from the other end of the palazzo.

Courtyard - Galleria Doria Pamphilj

This museum is unique in Rome for several reasons. It is one of the largest collections of art still in private hands and it is usually semi-deserted. The audio guide they provide is narrated by the current head of the family, who provides wonderful bits of family history along with information about the art and how it was acquired. Especially moving is the story of one his ancestors, whose devotion to his English wife, Mary, was so great that upon her death, he retired to the country where he planted a hedge spelling out her name and placed so that it would be the first thing he saw each morning when he awoke. It was this couple who is responsible for the well-preserved and authentic interiors of the Palazzo today.

After so much beauty, what did we do? Lunch, of course! We dined just a few steps from our apartment at Orso 80, a bustling little ristorante that Vicki discovered last year. Because we are obviously Americans we were seated in “international” section populated with Germans, Canadians, and some of our countrymen. We began with an antipasti misto―a plate of Italian delights―eggplant, squash, meatballs, peppers, beans, etc., a wonderful combination.

Orso 80 - Antipasto Misto

Vicki’s primi was also outstanding, gnocchi with butter and sage, simple, but perfectly prepared.

Orso 80 - Gnocchi with butter and sage

Evening found us back near our apartment in a wonderful little bar where we sipped Negronis and munched on peanuts and potato chips. Then it was off to the Campo de' Fiori again, a veritable mob scene of people strolling and sitting amidst outdoor cafes.