Sezmu

Vicki and I were excited about going to dinner at Sezmu last evening. It’s received a number of rave reviews and best of all, it is only two blocks from our house! When I first moved to the neighborhood the spot where Sezmu now resides was occupied by the Great Harvest Bread Company, renowned throughout Reno for its freshly baked bread. Then about two years ago they moved to Plumbgate, a yuppie little shopping center at Plumb Lane and Arlington Ave. Next came Bec’s, a frozen custard place that didn’t last very long. About six months ago I noticed there was a sign in the vacant spot indicating that a restaurant was going to open there. Finally, in November I drove by in the early evening and saw people eating at small tables—Sezmu had finally arrived!

Sezmu is on the east side of a fairly unattractive building on Mt. Rose Street. It’s a small space, but they’ve done a great job with the furnishings and décor. The west wall is covered with large fabric squares lit from below with lights embedded in the top of the long banquette. The remainder of the walls are the original red brick with windows all around and a high beam ceiling. Seating is at small tables along the two walls, along with bar seating on the opposite side and two tall tables near the kitchen.

The three-tiered menu is not huge, but is certainly innovative and wide-ranging. The wine list is extensive and varied with both inexpensive and more pricey bottles—we chose a nice sauvignon blanc from New Zealand, which we enjoyed with the fresh home-baked bread.

The first menu tier consists of several small bites including house marinated olives, sweet potato chips, and almond stuffed dates with bacon bits. The is followed by a number of small plate appetizers. We started with crispy fried calamari on a bed of pickled vegetables. It was wonderful—perfectly crisp calamari that went well with the unusual Thai basil sauce and the spicy/tangy vegetables. Next came the Beet Study, beets presented in three different ways—all of which show off the vegetable's fabulous flavor. Finally, seared diver scallops with cauliflower puree, red curry, and almond-raisin salad. This was heaven, beautifully cooked scallops, with inspired accompaniments. We both agreed that these were the best scallops we’ve ever had.

We decided to split an entrée and settled on the pork chop that comes with parsnip-pear puree, chard, and orange gastrique. This was a pork chop to make you completely rethink any previous ideas you may have had about pork: it was full of flavor, moist, and delightful with the vegetables that lay underneath. Other entrees on the menu included beef, fish, lamb, chicken and pasta—all very innovatively prepared, with a true passion for the food itself. Dessert consisted of a ru-laced crème brulee, gingersnaps, and roasted pineapple. Accompanied, of course with a couple of espressos.

The service too was outstanding; our server was helpful, knowledgeable, and even found time to stand and chat with us. The food came quickly, but not too … and there was always someone there when we needed something. The seating is cozy, which enabled us to have a wonderful conversation with the two couples seated next to us—longtime Reno residents who were also thoroughly enjoying their meal.

The chef/owners of Sezmu are the husband and wife duo of Larry Dunning and Kristi Hoffman. Dunning is the former owner/chef of Truffula in Tahoe City and executive chef at Squaw Valley’s Plumpjack Café and the Westside Café in Tahoe City. Evidently, Chef Troy and Coleen Cannan, the owners of LuLou's Restaurant, wanted to get Larry and Kristi to Reno so they helped them find the Mt. Rose Street location.

Sezmu is just what Reno needs; creatively prepared food with an emphasis on freshness and the use of organic ingredients, presented in an outstanding manner. Its menu gives the diner an opportunity to eat a variety of light plates or have a more substantial entrée. It’s everything that an innovative upscale neighborhood restaurant should be. By the way, the name Sezmu comes from that of the Egyptian deity of wine and oil presses.

670 Mount Rose St. Reno
327-4448